Earthwatch 2004 Project: South African Penguins
Diary of Team 4
Day 1: June 14
Standing with a lot of luggage on a “touristspot” made us volunteers an easy target to be spotted.
Normally the “Earthwatch-Team” goes straight to the ferry after lunch, but today they had a special treat for us.
“Us” is Sarah from Massachusetts, I'm Heidy from Aruba.
Duncan brought us to the University of Capetown for a talk by Melissa Giese. She's worked in Tasmania with oiled birds and gave spirited account on how these poor birds were rescued!
There we also had a chance to meet Prof. Les Underhill, one of the people in charge of the penguin-project on Robben Island. There were a lot more interesting people to be met by us, some of them will join the team on the island at a later stage, so they shall figure prominently in later reports.
To go to Robben Island later was not possible……..ferry closed due to bad weather, so Sue Kuyper, ”fairy-godmother” to volunteers, put Sarah and me into a charming B+B in Rondebosch. Later we were picked up and treated to a wonderful dinner with Prof. Underhill, his wife, Sue, Duncan, Sarah and me.
Not only was the food outstanding………the thought that this will be probably the last meal in 2 weeks where I don't have to actively participate in the preparation and clean-up, made it all the more enjoyable!
By 10 p.m. we were in our lodging, eagerly anticipating tomorrows start of our volunteer-work.
Day 1 I was very eager to meet the Earthwatch team at the Clock Tower at Nelson Mandela Gateway. I had been looking forward to working with the penguins for months. It was a gorgeous day, full of sunshine and the promise of a wonderful 2 weeks to come. I met Heidy, a fellow volunteer, and staff members Duncan and Neil. It was an exciting moment. Heidy and I couldn't wait to see the penguins. Unfortunately, due to rough sea conditions, we weren't able to set out for Robben Island until the next day. Though it was disappointing, we were lucky enough to hear a talk and have lunch at the University of Cape Town. After a very informative presentation about the rescue of oiled birds in Tasmania, Sue took us to our accommodation for a brief rest. Later that night we had a great dinner with Les Underhill, his wife Jane, Duncan and Sue. It was the best meal I've had in weeks and very much appreciated. We settled in for the night at the B+B, hopeful for good weather in the morning.
Day 2: June 15
By 10 a.m. we were on the ferry to Robben Island.
Sea a bit rough-but no big deal!!!!!!!!!
On the ferry were also a lot of school children, on a field-trip to Robben Island. What a pleasure to see all these friendly faces!
We settled into “our house”, nifty place, comfy and plenty of room for all of us.
Nola, Sarah, Duncan and I soon set out to see the penguins.
Nola had sorted out the paperwork about the nests from the last team and gave us a brief explanation what we will be doing tomorrow!
Before returning to the house we walked to the beach to spot “banded” birds.
NOT that they obliged to turn the “right” way to expose their tags, actually there a sort of “conspiracy” going on…….they banded together, one seemed to shield the banded birds……and MARCH.
Nevertheless, we managed quite a few numbers, but it certainly looks easier than it is!!!!!
We found a penguin which was bitten by a seal. Nola put him in a special box and by ferry he was taken to SANCCOB where he will be relieved from his misery.
I must say, he clung to life as good as he could!
A sad incidence, but even a sheltered, protected penguin-life on Robben Island isn't always fair!
Dinner was a joint effort with tasty results.
Since the “carnivors” were outnumbered by the vegetarians – the meat stayed in the freezer!
After dinner we watched soccer: Germany:Holland 1:1, so Sandra from the Netherlands, was not too upset about the result.
A little late to bed, but soccer is SERIOUS!!!!!!!!!
Day 2 - After a night at the very comfortable Bed and Breakfast, we finally boarded the Susan Kruger for Robben Island! It was another beautiful morning and as I looked out over the water, waiting to board the boat, I was full of energy and anticipation for the experience to come. Mario and Sandra met us upon our arrival at Robben Island, and soon we were off to the house. After settling in, we were finally off to see the penguins! As we walked down the road, towards the nesting site, we spotted penguins at the edge of the bushes. It was amazing to see the birds up close, and we looked through our binoculars to have a closer look at their band numbers. Soon, after meeting up with Mario, we went to some of the nests to learn what duties we would be performing during the next 2 weeks. I will never forget the first time I peered into a nest and saw the chicks; it was a wonderful moment. Later we went to the Hide to retrap penguins as they walked along a “penguin highway” inland from the beach. It was a beautiful afternoon along the ocean's edge, and very cool to see the penguins make their way to their nests for the evening.
Day 3: June 16
We had a long and exciting morning as we went around to all the nests to update their status. The route took us along the ocean, which was stunning in the early afternoon light. We discovered a bird that needed to be banded with a rubber band, and I had my first opportunity to handle a penguin! I put on the gloves, gently removed the bird from its nest and held it still while Heidy placed the band on the left flipper. It was one of the greatest moments I've ever experienced, and I couldn't stop smiling. The penguin was extremely powerful and it was beautiful to see it so close. Later we went home for a late lunch. I joined Sandra for the afternoon as she worked in the field. After taking measurements of penguin chicks, we walked around the island back to the house, witnessing a breathtaking sunset.
I,Heidy,was to help Jenny Underhill with the road-count of penguins.My “shift” was from 8 p.m. to 10 p.m………so I joined Jenny to help counting.With the night –goggles the penguins looked like little green “ghosts” crossing the street, some of them dawdling so much,it wasn”t easy to count correctly……..Passing the same spot in the morning I realized that the road-crossing was next to the “leper cemetery”.But it was penguins we counted,right?not ghosts?
Day 4: June 17
The day started early, at 4:30 am, as I was on the morning shift to help Jenny with her research. We sat on the side of the road and used night vision goggles to count the penguins as they made their way from their nests to the beach. It was amazing to see the penguins in complete darkness as they carefully crossed the road and then hopped off, down into the bush. At 7:30 I went back to the house, watching the sunrise as I walked and listening to the braying of the penguins. After a quick breakfast I walked down to the nests to begin work with the rest of the team. We finished checking the nests from the previous morning and I had my second opportunity to hold an adult penguin as Heidy placed the band on its flipper. We then identified and tagged new nests and made our way back to the house for lunch. After getting to know the intricate laundry system of the staff house, Heidy and I went to the Hide with Duncan to spend an afternoon retrapping. Using our spotting scopes, we wrote down the band numbers of the penguins as they traveled from the ocean back to their nests. They glistened in the sun as they shook off drops of water from their feathers. Heidy joined Jenny in the field for her evening shift, and I walked home with Duncan. Nola had an excellent vegan meal waiting for us. Tomorrow I will help Jenny again on the morning shift 4-6am.
Day 5: June 18
It was another great morning, counting penguins with Jenny as they made their way to the beach. It was too foggy to see them properly at times, but for the most part it was a very successful effort. Later Heidy, Duncan, Nola, Mario and I checked the penguin nests. It was another gorgeous day; the sun was shining and once again we were thankful for such beautiful weather. We found an egg in the process of hatching in the nest of one diligent parent, and saw many P0s and P1s as well. If there is something more adorable in the world than a penguin chick, I've never seen it. After lunch with Mario, we finished checking the nests and took a short walk along the ocean. We decided that it was a perfect afternoon for a game count, so we hopped in the back of the buggy and set off around the island. Riding in the back of the open air vehicle, we enjoyed magnificent views as we looked for Fallow Deer, Springbok, Bontebok, Eland, Steenbok and Ostrich. It was a great time, the highlight of which would have to be driving down Lover's Lane, turning onto the airstrip and suddenly being surrounded by Swift Terns and Hartlaub's Gulls. They swirled above us, enveloping us in their cries. As the sun dropped lower in the sky, we drove slowly, enjoying the beauty of the moment. Fallow deer were silhouetted in the sinking sun and the ocean stretched forever. After finishing our count, we stopped along the road to watch the sky turn shades of pink above the sea and across the horizon to Table Mountain. Penguins were everywhere, an amazing thing to see, as they were not previously seen on this part of the island. It was wonderful to know that their population is increasing and that they are utilizing new areas of the island.
Hi'this is Heidy logging in.
Yesterday I was nipped in the finger twice by a penguin which Sarah valiantly handled,no big bloodshed………and I feel INITIATED!!!!!!!!
Yes, today was wonderful……….a day that makes being here on Robben Island worth the,sometimes ,feeling cold or getting a chore that one doesn”t like too much.
Where else in the world can you see a sunset that defies the law of color co-ordination…..and that light shines on springbok,penguins and steenboks all next to each other…………all harmony!
Near the shipwrecks on the beach we saw a lot of burrows dug by penguins who,apparently, never nested there before……so ,hopefully,their count is increasing……….should make us proud to be a tiny part in this.
I find being here soooooooooo relaxing:only nature,these adorable penguins,a small amount of people interested in the same things,and every evening being pleasantly tired from a day in the field,no need for “entertainment”,just a hot shower and off……to dream about all these great wonders of nature we were privileged to experience today.
Dinner was a regular feast, micro-waved to perfection,all there is to say on a day like this: NOTHING WRONG WITH OUR PLANET!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Day 6: June 19
Today was an optional day off. I decided to go to Cape Town for half a day and be back in time for sunset. Sue came to the island to visit, bringing supplies. Around 8am I boarded the ferry she had just arrived on. Our skipper was a friendly man named Tommy who whisks tourists and staff to and from Cape Town aboard his beautiful ferry. The day started overcast and wet; however, in a few hours it was gorgeous and sunny once again. I didn't want to leave Robben Island, nor the penguins, even for a few hours, but I had some plans in the city. So as soon as I finished my errands in Cape Town, I boarded Tommy's ferry and returned to the island. I stood at the back of the ferry and watched the city grow smaller in the distance. After a short while, I saw the edge of the now familiar Robben Island and I broke into a huge smile. The lighthouse stood tall on the hill and I was happy to see “home” once again. I spotted penguins on the beach as we ferried past the jetty. It was great to see them. As we pulled into the harbor, I saw a seal taking shallow dives and coming up for air. I viewed the seal differently now, having seen the damage they do to penguins, but it was still exciting to see this marine mammal in the wild. I got off the ferry and as I walked towards the prison, I could see familiar faces peering out of the bushes to my left. I was so happy to see the penguins. I was only gone for 6 hours, but I really missed them. I walked back to the house in the sun, watching the rabbits browse and the penguins begin to come up from the beach. A few minutes from home, a new friend pulled alongside me in his vehicle and gave me a ride the rest of the way to house #12. I greeted Heidy, Duncan and Nola and spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing. Shortly after the sun went down, I peered outside my bedroom window to see a tiny sliver of moon pasted against the early night sky. It was an absolutely stunning view to end another great day in South Africa.
Day 7: June 20
Today, Sunday, is another day off, so we enjoyed a relaxing morning before going to check a few nests in the Kramat. After finishing our duties for the day, Heidy, Duncan and I went back to the house for a quick lunch, while Nola took a stroll around the island. She had to return to Cape Town today on the 2:00 ferry. After lunch, Duncan went to take some photos of penguins and Heidy and I went for a walk. We walked through the trees for a bit, and as we entered a clearing, we spied springbok grazing. As soon as they saw us, they bolted into the distance. It was incredible to be walking with these springbok and then to see them running at full speed. When we got to the coast, we had a great view of the crashing surf, Cape Town across the water and Table Mountain looming high above the city. Heidy decided to go looking for shells and I continued walking. As I approached the airstrip, the Hartlaub's Gulls and Swift Terns began mobbing, flying so close I could see the red inside their beaks as they screamed at me. I crossed an open space where bontebok grazed all around me. It is always wonderful to see animals while on foot as opposed to driving past them in a vehicle. I stopped and watched them for a while. It was very peaceful. I moved on until I got to a bit of rocky coast where I knew penguins came up out of the sea. I saw two on a flat rock, standing in the sun. I walked a bit further, so as not to disturb them. I continued along the coast until I found a well-trodden penguin highway. I followed it down to the water and saw a group of penguins gathered at the water's edge. There was an opening between the rocks where the water was calm. The penguins were entering and exiting the sea from this protected space. I watched them swim, so fast and streamlined under the water, and then bob in the waves. They occasionally ducked under a particularly rough wave. It was a privilege to see them navigating the sea; they are masters. I walked back to the road and out of the corner of my eye, I saw a very small P3 sitting away from the nests, not far from the road, directly in the sun. The chick was covered with flies and its right eye was closed, but I didn't see any open wounds. Having seen Nola rescue a bird a few days earlier, I knew the routine. I had to take the bird to a staff member so that we could call SANCCOB and put the chick on the next ferry to Cape Town. I took off my t-shirt (I was wearing a tank top underneath) and gently wrapped the chick. I walked down Cornelia Road, carrying the bird close to my body. The chick was warm and I could feel life in its' body, and I hoped that it could be saved. Luckily, after a few minutes I saw the Earthwatch vehicle. I found Duncan and we called SANCCOB. We took the chick to the harbor and arranged for it to be transported to Cape Town on the next ferry. I am worried about the chick, I have grown attached to it already, but feel happy that Nola will be looking after it tomorrow.
Day 8: June 21
Good news from Nola, the chick I found yesterday is still alive and is now on antibiotics. Its blood tests came back normal, but the chick is weak and very small for its age. So Nola will let us know later in the week how the chick is doing…
More good news is that Marta arrived today from Cape Town. She will be here the rest of the week. Marianne is coming tomorrow, so we will have 3 Principal Investigators on site. This morning we opened 28 new nests, including a nest with a penguin banded with a rubber band in 2001! It was very exciting to find this bird, especially because it was nesting with 2 chicks. It was a great discovery because it proves that the bird is breeding successfully with the rubber band. We gave the bird a new rubber band and will check its progress tomorrow…everyone was very pleased with this find.
After lunch we will split into 2 teams, one team to count birds crossing the road, and the other to do a rabbit count. The rabbit count team will also do a brief count of birds crossing another section of road. And tonight, we will have quite a bit of data to enter. So it will be a busy and varied day of research activities. By the way, Heidy would like to check in with a very enthusiastic hello. She is off with Duncan to begin the road count. Driving around the island doing the rabbit count with Marta was great! It was a beautiful afternoon and we spotted dozens of rabbits. We also witnessed a gorgeous sunset as the sun dipped just behind one of the shipwrecks.
Day 9: June 22
Everybody was worried about impending bad weather,but the “big Guy” above didn't get the message,so it was another glorious day in Paradise.
Last night Martha….and this morning Marienne,both from Capetown University,joined us here,so this morning we split teams to get as much as possible done……BEFORE all the bad weather actually happens.
Sarah was off with Martha,I traipsed behind Duncan and Marienne,revisiting nests we started yesterdayD,straighten out pending paper-work……..and check what has to be done this afternoon.
We invited Mario for lunch and soon after this we all set out to do our respective “chores”.
Today was my chance to catch a penguin.Duncan had warned me as NOT to let him escape into the bushes,so,I'm afraid,I choked the poor fellow a little bit,but after some anxious flapping on his part he got fitted with a stupendous looking plastic-band and was fit enough to resume tending to his two chicks.
Sorry,buddy,no hard feelings------it just felt great to hold you for a while!
We visited some more nests,the wind picked up considerably,later on in the evening we got a little sampling of some more howling around the house. But,let's hope the roof stays on.
Martha,Marienne and Duncan went for some re-traps,Sarah and me did another road-count………..slightly inconvenienced by tourists who chased the poor penguins with their cameras in a way that the poor birds didn't really know whether they were coming or going!
Life as a tourist-attraction can be tough!!!!!!!!!!!!
But,somehow,these “little people” managed to wobble to where they wanted to go and Sarah and me went back to the house to “defrost”.
Dinner was a joint effort with another creative way to use the abundance of onions in our pantry,so we all got our vitamins…….and a shared bottle of wonderful Cape Pinotage got the creative juices going…….the result was a general “catching-up” with paper-work,no soccer tonight,therefore no-ones patriotic feelings get disturbed………and Duncan can rest in the “afterglow” of last nights 4:2 win of England over Croatia.
Right now the wind howls around the house…….so we will see what tomorrow will be like!
Day 9: Marianne joined us today from Cape Town, arriving around 8:00 am. After a quick cup of tea, we divided into groups and set off for our morning duties. Marta and I headed to the Kramat, where we checked all the nests in the area. There were quite a few nests which we could 'red tag', since the second parent was present. We also found a suitable “R” nest, so I had another opportunity to handle one of the beautiful penguins while Marta banded it. Later we had lunch at the house with Mario. In the afternoon, we divided into teams once more. Duncan, Heidy and I went around to the area 'near P7' to find and rubber band a bird we had identified that morning. Unfortunately, I underestimated the penguin's skittishness and before I could get a good handle on it, it took off! It ran off into the bushes, leaving a trail of dust and disappointment. I hadn't previously experienced a penguin running off like that and didn't anticipate it. But the lesson was learned… I knew that in the morning, I would get a second chance. Then Heidy and I went near the harbor to do a road count, while Duncan went to retrap at the Hide.
Day 10: June 23
Today, Bruce came aboard the afternoon ferry. We went to the Hartlaub Gull and Swift Tern breeding colonies and walked transects, counting nests. It was a great experience, because I'd never seen their eggs before. Later, we did diet sampling, which although is unsettling to see, is very important for penguin research.
Day 11: June 24
We went down to the jetty right after sunrise to the Bank Cormorants. Bruce wanted to collect pellets as part of his diet sampling work. It was a gorgeous sunrise and it was great to be so close to the breeding birds. Bruce and Duncan had to leave the island on the morning ferry. I was very sad to see them go. Later in the morning, Heidy and I had the opportunity to take a tour of the prison. It was a very moving experience. Shortly after we met up with Martha and Marienne to check the nests. Once again the weather was beautiful and we got a lot of work accomplished. After lunch, I went with Martha to do a moult count. It was brilliant. We crawled through the sand on our bellies with our binoculars to get close enough to the penguins. We counted a few juveniles and one adult. Then we walked along the coast, stopping periodically to look for moulting individuals. We found a few more juveniles and adults. As soon as we finished, we met Marienne and Heidy for a spectacular sunset. The waves were crashing violently and the fog was beginning to drift over the island. Tonight is the last night for the team, and I am very sad that this Earthwatch project is ending. I have had the time of my life and I will never forget this experience.
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